Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Lesco (Hungarian Ragout)

Lesco (pronounced let-cho) is a Hungarian staple made with sweet peppers.   Inspired by an article in Edible Vancouver by Robert Olaj, I made this last week.   The main ingredients are onions, tomatoes, lard, and paprika.

Olaj recommends any kind of sweet peppers other than the generic ones we have in our store, which are too bland and watery.   The traditional one is Hungarian wax peppers, but I used the ordinary ones and it showed in the results.

Bacon fat is easy to make and can be stored in the fridge for ages.   Slice bacon into lardons (easier to do with frozen bacon) (1/4-inch slices) and saute in the pot you are going to use for the lesco.  Use the bacon bits later for potato salad or spinach salad.

You need Hungarian paprika.   I bought a couple of brands and went with the best smell.   The best apparently comes from Szegedi or Kalocsai regions of Hungary.   Don't used smoked paprika, it is sickening.  

Regarding garlic, make sure to use fresh fat firm bulbs.   Garlic needs to be very fresh.

I used a fat Walla Walla onion.   These are from Washington or Oregon and are very sweet and delicious.   Only available for a short period, you have to really watch for moldy soft ones.   They are expensive, so enjoy when you can.

The resulting dish is delicious, although next time I will find the right peppers and paprika.   Lesco can be eaten as a vegetable side dish or condiment.  I found it needs to be eaten with a rich meat dish, for example, baked chicken thighs to bring out the best in this sauce.  

Ingredients:
6 slices fatty bacon
1 large onion
4 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp. Hungarian paprika
3-4 large peppers, or equivalent, Hungarian wax peppers, banana peppers, and one or 2 hot cherry or apple peppers
3 large ripe tomatoes
1/2 Tbsp. sea salt

Instructions:
In a large heavy bottomed stainless steel pot, saute 6 slices of bacon on medium heat to make the bacon fat.
Remove the bacon and use in another recipe.
Meanwhile, chop the onion into 3/4-inch pieces.   Saute the onion in the bacon fat until transluscent.
Meanwhile, chop the peppers into 3/4-inch pieces.  Remove seeds, stems, and ribs.  Chop the tomatoes into 3/4-inch pieces.
Once the onions are ready, grate the garlic into the onions, and saute for 1 minute.
Add the peppers and saute 10 minutes.
Remove the pot from the heat, and stir in the paprika until well blended.   Paprika burns easily so you must do this off the heat.
Return the pot to the heat and stir in tomatoes and salt.
Simmer for 15 minutes and adjust seasoning.

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