Friday, September 24, 2010

Homemade Cottage Cheese (Glomms)

Why make your own cottage cheese?   Our grandparents made it because they had a lot of cows and milk every day and no refrigeration.   All they had to do is put a bowl of unpasteurized milk in the basement in the morning, and they had delicious clabbered milk by evening.   After tasting it, you will know why it is much better than store bought.

My quest for easy methods of making really good food has me eager to make cheese.   So I started this week with a beginner cheese.   

There are a myriad of methods in cookbooks and on line, but most seem too complex for me.   I didn't want to use any special equipment or ingredients that the "awla" didn't have and I didn't want to stand around stirring for hours or making a big mess to clean up.  

So, I opted for a Ukrainian method that worked great, but not before some anxiety and a conference call with Rose Froese and others.   Man, is it hard to find somebody who can do these old time things these days.   Thanks to Joan for organizing the call.    

I used homogenized pasteurized milk from the store.   Whole milk tastes better and is healthier.   I used store sour cream for the culture.  Buttermilk works too as the culture, but then you have to use a whole litre up.

You have to use a stainless steel pot for this, not aluminum or anything else.  

For pictures of what it's supposed to look like after clabbering and separating, etc., check this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgjLbGgjBv0


Ingredients:
2 litres whole milk (from the store)
2 Tbsp. sour cream (from the store)

Instructions:
Sterilize a stainless steel pot with metal handles by putting a little water into it and boiling it with the lid on -- the steam will sterilize the pot.   Pour out the water.  Pour boiling water over a large whisk or spoon.
Pour 2-3 litres of whole milk into the pot.
Add 2 generous Tbsps. sour cream and whisk into the milk thoroughly.
Cover the pot with a clean tea towel.
Set the pot in a warm place for 2 days until the milk separates into curds and whey (watery liquid).  
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (170 if you have a convection oven).
Put the pot of curdled milk into the oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes (1 hour for softer, 1 hour and 30 minutes for dryer).
Take the pot out and let cool on the counter (covered with tea towel) for about 2 hours.
Stir the cream from the top of the curdled mass gently into the mass, without stirring in the whey.
Lay two layers of cheesecloth in a large colander, overlapping the edges at least 6 inches.
Put the colander into the kitchen sink.
Pour the curdled milk carefully into the colander and let drain for 5 minutes.
Tie the 4 corners of the cheesecloth together and hang from the faucet or just let it drain in the colander for 1 hour.
Transfer the cheese into a glass container, making sure to get all the cheese off the cheesecloth.   Discard the cheesecloth.
Store in the frig.   It will keep about 5 days.

Serving suggestions:
Ciabatta, smeared with thick layer of cottage cheese, topped with oven dried tomatoes. (see Oven Dried Tomatoes, Ciabatta)
Varenki (perogies)
Lazy man's varenki
Cottage cheese pancakes
Crepes (see Crepes with Cottage Cheese)

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Lesco (Hungarian Ragout)

Lesco (pronounced let-cho) is a Hungarian staple made with sweet peppers.   Inspired by an article in Edible Vancouver by Robert Olaj, I made this last week.   The main ingredients are onions, tomatoes, lard, and paprika.

Olaj recommends any kind of sweet peppers other than the generic ones we have in our store, which are too bland and watery.   The traditional one is Hungarian wax peppers, but I used the ordinary ones and it showed in the results.

Bacon fat is easy to make and can be stored in the fridge for ages.   Slice bacon into lardons (easier to do with frozen bacon) (1/4-inch slices) and saute in the pot you are going to use for the lesco.  Use the bacon bits later for potato salad or spinach salad.

You need Hungarian paprika.   I bought a couple of brands and went with the best smell.   The best apparently comes from Szegedi or Kalocsai regions of Hungary.   Don't used smoked paprika, it is sickening.  

Regarding garlic, make sure to use fresh fat firm bulbs.   Garlic needs to be very fresh.

I used a fat Walla Walla onion.   These are from Washington or Oregon and are very sweet and delicious.   Only available for a short period, you have to really watch for moldy soft ones.   They are expensive, so enjoy when you can.

The resulting dish is delicious, although next time I will find the right peppers and paprika.   Lesco can be eaten as a vegetable side dish or condiment.  I found it needs to be eaten with a rich meat dish, for example, baked chicken thighs to bring out the best in this sauce.  

Ingredients:
6 slices fatty bacon
1 large onion
4 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp. Hungarian paprika
3-4 large peppers, or equivalent, Hungarian wax peppers, banana peppers, and one or 2 hot cherry or apple peppers
3 large ripe tomatoes
1/2 Tbsp. sea salt

Instructions:
In a large heavy bottomed stainless steel pot, saute 6 slices of bacon on medium heat to make the bacon fat.
Remove the bacon and use in another recipe.
Meanwhile, chop the onion into 3/4-inch pieces.   Saute the onion in the bacon fat until transluscent.
Meanwhile, chop the peppers into 3/4-inch pieces.  Remove seeds, stems, and ribs.  Chop the tomatoes into 3/4-inch pieces.
Once the onions are ready, grate the garlic into the onions, and saute for 1 minute.
Add the peppers and saute 10 minutes.
Remove the pot from the heat, and stir in the paprika until well blended.   Paprika burns easily so you must do this off the heat.
Return the pot to the heat and stir in tomatoes and salt.
Simmer for 15 minutes and adjust seasoning.

Monday, September 13, 2010

Oven Dried Tomatoes

I am searching for a way to preserve the flavour and goodness of summer tomatoes.   I don't want to use canned tomatoes (BPA and other processing concerns).  One method I tried this week is oven drying.   It worked better than I could have imagined.   The results are amazing.

I used half Roma and half beefsteak --- both field tomatoes from Mary's out in Surrey.   They grow it all themselves.  

I used Kalamata gold olive oil (it really is the best) from a Greek market on Broadway.   Be sure to check the expiry date on the bottle.   Buy in glass bottles and store in a dark place.  

Ingredients:
Extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
Finely chopped fresh herbs (rosemary, thyme)

Instructions:
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F (probably better a little lower).
Line baking pans with foil.
Slice Romas in half lengthwise, and remove any larger stem ends.
Slice beefsteaks in half inch slices lengthwise (through the stem end), and remove any larger stem ends.
Drizzle each tomato slice with olive oil.  
Salt and pepper each tomato slice lightly.
Add a small amount of finely chopped fresh herbs to each tomato slice.
Put two racks near top of the oven.
Put the tomatoes in for 3 to 4 hours, depending on how you like them.
Remove to glass container, cover tightly, and put in the frig or just eat them.  

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Basic Pork Chops with Onions and Spices

Pork is very nutritious (loaded with vitamins) and cheap, so everyone should know how to do basic pork chops.   For students and singles, who don't generally cook, learn this standby.

Buy the cheapest pork on sale, with as much fat and bone as possible.   Yes, that is where the taste and nutrition is.   Pork steaks are the tastiest and cheapest so watch for them.

I have provided two versions, one with onions, one with the addition of spices.

The method is called braising, which is cooking with liquid.  It takes a little more cooking time but prep time is minimal.  

Ingredients:
1-2 large white or yellow onions

1 to 4 pork chops or steaks
1-2 Tbsp. olive oil
Spices (optional): 4-5 whole juniper berries, 1 star anise, 1 tsp. cumin seeds, and 4-5 green cardamon.  Crush slightly in a mortar and pestle. 

Instructions:
Heat a large saute pan on medium heat.
When the edge of the pan is hot to the touch, add oil and heat.
Meanwhile, peel and slice the onions into thin slices.
Saute the onions until soft and starting to turn brown (caramelize).  Toss frequently with tongs so they don't burn.
Remove the onions to a bowl.
Meanwhile, season pork with salt and pepper on one side. 
Add a bit more oil to the pan and heat.
Sear the pork chops on both sides.   Leave the meat in place until it loosens on its own.
While searing, prepare spices and fry them beside the meat in a little oil.
Once the pork is brown on both sides, add back the onions and a quarter cup of water.
Then immediately put the lid on the pan.
Turn down the heat, and simmer for 45 minutes.

Friday, September 3, 2010

Harry's Broccoli and Peach Salad

At Lake Riviera, breakfast is always a salad, combining fruits, vegetables, greens, and fresh herbs.   Often served with cheeses.  Salad seems the perfect breakfast.   Every one of Harry's salads is original.

Salt and pepper pots (pottery parfait dishes with thick stems) sit on the counter ready to liberally season all dishes at the lake.   Sea salt is from France courtesy of Sarah.   Pepper is from the bulk food bin and blackens everything from tomatoes to boiled eggs. 

Ingredients: 
Broccoli
Ontario peaches
Avocado
Green onion
Parsley
Dill
Arugula
Limes
Olive oil
Sea salt
Pepper

Instructions:
Put arugula in a bowl.
Cut the vegetables and fruit into 1/2 inch pieces.
Chop the onion, parsley, and dill finely (about 3 Tbsps of each)
Squeeze a couple of limes over the salad (heating the limes in the microwave makes them very juicy).
Add a sprinkle of olive oil.
Season with salt and pepper.
Serve in bowls or plates. 

Bernie's Bean and Ham Soup

Another highlight of a recent Manitoba visit was a pot of Bernie's bean soup.  It was so good, we went back the next night for more.

The amout of salt will depend on how salty the ham is and the type of salt.   You may find that it doesn't need salt at all.

Ingredients:
5 pound smoked ham with rind and bone (should not be not too salty)
10 cups water
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns
1 bunch parsley
1 bay leaf
1 clove garlic
2 onions
1 Tbsp. salt (unless the ham is salty)
3 cups dried beans (the small ones)

Instructions:
Soak beans in a large bowl of water for 8 hours.  Drain the water and discard.
Cook the ham in a large pot of water for 2 hours.   Put the spices and herbs into a large spice ball and cook with the ham.
Chop the onions finely and cook them and the garlic with the ham.
Simmer for 2 hours.
Add the soaked beans and cook for another hour.

Sean's Apple Pie

Sean makes the best apple pie.   It was the highlight of a recent visit.  

One of the keys is sour apples.  Sean and I prefer apples that get mushy, but most people like firmer apples.   In any case, we used the ones from Joan and Harry's apple trees, which were many different varieties.  

Ingredients:
2 cups pastry flour
1 cup Tenderflake lard (cold)
1 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. white vinegar
1 egg, beaten
10-12 apples, cored, and cut into chunks with peel
1 Tbsp. flour
1/2 cup brown sugar or to taste
1 tsp. cinnamon

Instructions:
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.
Mix the shortening, salt, and flour, until the flour forms small pieces.   Don't work too much because your warm hands will heat up the shortening too much.   Or use two knives held together or a pastry cutter.
Mix 1 Tbsp vinegar with one beaten egg.   Hand beating the egg with a fork or whisk is okay.  
Add vinegar and egg mixture to the flour mixture and work just until the pastry forms a ball.  Don't overwork because the pastry will get too warm.
Roll out the dough into 4 circles with a cold bottle of wine.
Put pie crust into 2 glass pie plates.
Mix apple chunks with flour, cinnamon, and brown sugar.
Put the apples into the pie shell, cover with second pie crust.   Trim with a knife.
Beat an egg and brush over the pie crust.
Sprinkle with white sugar.
Bake at 425 for 15 minutes and 350 for one hour.